We arrived in Praia do Cumbuco after a 21 hours overnight bus trip from Salvador to Fortaleza, a night in a backpacker's hostel and a 45 minutes ride on a local bus. 'Let's just do one!' said Andrew as we were trying to figure out how on earth we would get from Salvador up to the middle of the coast of Ceara,1236 km north of where we were. 'You can't say you have seen a country until you have done a long bus ride!' said Andrew reminiscing his days of traveling in India. So we 'did one'.Traveling by bus seems to be a popular means of transport in Brazil and the service certainly is tried and tested. There are a variety of companies specialising in various different parts of the country and the connections are pretty good. Our bus went the inland route, taking us through the interior of the northeastern states that lie between Bahia and Ceara, stopping every couple of hours in minuscule agricultural towns of unknown names in service stations that looked pretty much the same as one another. Very pleased that we were catching a glimpse of the side of Brazil that is off the beaten track, I settled in my (almost fully) reclinable seat with a Paulo Coelho book in my hand, occasionally distracted by the scenery, occasionally reaching for another pao de queijo in Andrew's bag. Before I knew it we were arriving at Fortaleza's bus station.
Praia do Cumbuco is a small town 30 km out of Fortaleza, set between several kilometres of white sandy beach fringed by rows of coconut trees on one side and the wilderness of the sand dunes, paradise of buggy riders, on the other. The beach itself has a certain wild feel. Set on a very straight stretch of the coast, it is completely exposed to the strong winds blowing from the Atlantic, which - as we very quickly discovered- make Cumbuco one of the world's capitals of kite surfing.
Like in many other places in Brazil, here the old gracefully blends with the new. The flashy high tech looking kites that frantically whizz around the blue waters are gently counterbalanced by wooden jangadas, the traditional fishing boats of the North East of Brazil laying in endless rows on the sand or floating solitarily in the rough waters. With their distinctive triangular-shaped sails, they make themselves seen from anyone who is at sea or at land almost like flickering flames in the vastness of the horizon.
Cumbuco is equipped to host a substantial amount of tourism and clearly benefits from the trade linked to the kite and wind surf business almost all year round. The international community that has grown around this is impressive with a strong presence of Dutch, Germans and British aficionados who set aside several weeks of the year to come this corner of paradise to practice their favourite sport - and, undoubtedly- to enjoy the chilled, friendly and informal vibes of the local community. The Dutch presence is particularly striking - maybe they have never left since they first invaded this part of the country in the 17th Century?? But our question is answered during one of our breakfast conversations with Jall, a Dutch friend who is staying at the same pousada as us who explains that kitesurfing is big in Holland because of the very favourable winds and the Dutch have therefore taken to this sport like ducks to water - or birds to wind?
But the international feel of Cumbuco is nicely counterbalanced by a strong local community which has embraced the benefits brought about by tourism and yet seems to be remaining strongly rooted in its rhythms and ways. The heart of Cumbuco is the square featuring the local church, a concrete football pitch lined by an almost worn out metallic net and a large white washed building, home of the local fishing trade. Houses and shops run by the locals alternate, to the point where it's difficult to tell what's for private use and what's for business.
Most of the local life takes place outside. In this, Cumbuco reminds a lot of Sala, the small village where I grew up. In the warm summer nights, the little square is literally buzzing with life. The pitch becomes the stage of many late night football games, capoeira rodas and maculele shows...all happening at the same time! Meat skewers are constantly sizzling on the barbecue of a small food stall next to the church - which we dubbed 'the late night burger van' albeit much better when it comes to the taste of the meat and the smiles with which it is served (they come for free!). Locals sit outside on their verandas chatting in an animated way and enjoying their cold beers.
Christmas Eve in town was not to be missed. Making our way back from the Christmas roda of Monitor Wyll who runs the local capoeira group here in Cumbuco under the banner of the larger Grupo Muzenza, we found the town in full swing and ready to embrace the Christmas celebrations. Pizza, Caipirinha and a first go at Forro, a traditional norteastern type of music and dance courtesy of a local live band were a perfect start for our Christmas here in Brazil. And - who knows- kitesurfing might be next...watch this space!
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